It's time to do away with outmoded definitions of skin type. Limit the field to dry, oily, and combination, for example, and we ignore many crucial factors.

Have you noticed dark spots on your skin after sun exposure or as a cut heals? If you borrow a friend's cleanser, will you end up with irritated skin? Do you eat your veggies? Great skin results from addressing those questions and more, so let's look at the four parameters that really define your skin type:


• Dry (D) vs. Oily (O)
Oily skin appears shiny, and those who have it may prefer gel- or powder-based cosmetic products, as moisturizers feel greasy. Dry skin may appear dull and rough; dry skin types find moisturizer soothing and gravitate toward creamy makeup. Many people assume this parameter is solely affected by oil production, but the condition of your skin barrier - the moisture-retaining outer layer of skin - is equally important.


• Sensitive (S) vs. Resistant (R)
Sensitive skin flushes easily and may become red and irritated at the slightest deviation from its standard routine; it may also be prone to acne and eczema. While resistant skin sounds like an unqualified blessing, people with this type often need to use stronger products to penetrate their skin and achieve the desired effect.


• Pigmented (P) vs. Non-Pigmented (N)
Some people believe that pigmented types are always dark-skinned, which is absolutely not the case. Anyone who experiences unwanted dark spots (melasma, sun spots, or freckles, for example) is a pigmented type - in fact, 21 percent of visits to the dermatologist are for treatment of dark spots.


• Wrinkled (W) vs. Tight (T)
Short of a crystal ball, this parameter is the best indication of how your skin will age, based on both genetic tendencies and lifestyle. You can't do much about your genes, of course, but your daily routine can significantly affect your score on the wrinkled-tight scale: sun exposure, smoking, and poor nutrition, for example, all contribute to skin aging.


Put them together, and you get 16 skin types instead of three or four - a far more realistic picture. (For example, I'm a DSNW, which means that my regimen focuses not only on moisturizing my dry skin, but on preventing irritation and addressing wrinkles.) Join me next time when we'll examine dry vs. oily skin, and put the power to make positive skin care choices back in your hands.


Wishing you great skin!
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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book, "The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site. Many of Dr. Baumann's recommended skin care products are available there, and a portion of proceeds goes to The Dermatology Foundation.