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Paula Begoun's Bonus Beauty Bulletin
April 7, 2005
*** DRUGSTORE DOUBLES ***
Chanel
$$$ Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour ($30) debuts as
Chanel's answer to the question some women must be asking: "Max Factor's
Lipfinity and Cover Girl's Outlast really work well, but isn't there a similar
product that costs A LOT MORE?" Mirroring the same concept introduced by the
aforementioned products (a lip color that dries to a matte, unmovable
finish,accompanied by a clear gloss that doesn't disturb the color to create a
creamy finish), Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour is a
formidable option for those looking for long-wearing lip color. The shade
selection is smaller than that of competing brands, but each shade is quite
attractive, with colors that are complimentary to light and dark skin tones (the dark shades are very dark, so test them before purchasing). It does wear
well throughout the day (and night), but as with similar products, it
requires regular reapplication of the top coat to keep lips feeling comfortable. Keep in mind the extra expense does not get you a superior product.
*** PROBLEMS? SOLUTIONS! ***
When Should I Throw Out a Product?
Problem: I've heard a lot of different information regarding when I
should throw away a cosmetic. Is there a time limit when products should be
thrown away?
Solution: Unfortunately, there are no regulations or guidelines on the
expiration date for skin-care or makeup products. The FDA has no rules
on this issue whatsoever. Cosmetic companies generally do one to three
year stability testing on their products, but this typically looks only at
heat variables (freezing or overheating, for instance). It doesn't take into
account how consumers use the products. Cosmetics that have been
improperly stored-for example, exposed to sunlight, left open, contaminated (any product packaged in a jar has almost a one-hundred percent risk of being
contaminated)-may deteriorate substantially before a year is up. On the
other hand, products stored under ideal conditions may be acceptable long
after any suggested "use by" dates.
So what should you do? In general, it is best to toss out cosmetics
placed near the eye (like mascara) after four to six months, and to dispose of
face products (moisturizers, foundations) after one to two years. The usage
time for eye-area cosmetics is more limited than for other products. Because
of microbial exposure and the risk of eye infections, some industry
experts recommend replacing mascara every three months. If mascara becomes dry, discard it. Do not add water or saliva to moisten it as that will
introduce bacteria into the product. If you have an eye infection, consult a
physician immediately, stop using all eye-area cosmetics, and discard those you were using when the infection occurred.
Other cosmetics that might have a short shelf-life are "all natural"
products that may contain plant-derived substances conducive to microbial
growth. It also is important for consumers to consider the increased risk of
contamination in some "natural" products that contain nontraditional
preservatives or no preservatives at all.
Sharing makeup increases the risk of contamination. The testers commonly
found at cosmetics counters are more likely to become contaminated than
the same ones in an individual's home. If you feel you must test a cosmetic
before purchasing it, apply it with a new, unused applicator, such as a
fresh cotton swab. But remember?these are merely suggestions, and not based
on any established research or guidelines. (Source: FDA Office of Cosmetics
Facts Sheet, March 9, 2000, "Shelf Life-Expiration Date.")
*** NEW FOR YOU ***
Paula's Select Natural Finish Oil-Absorbing Makeup SPF 15 keeps oil and
shine
in check, evens out your skin tone with a special blend of
oil-absorbers and
smooth-finish ingredients, and provides broad-spectrum sun protection.
Initially creamy, this foundation's exquisite texture blends easily and
dries
to a sheer to light, long-wearing matte finish. See all four shades at
http://bb.cosmeticscop.com/t?ctl=CB4DBD:32CC7D2
*** DEAR PAULA ***
Dear Paula,
I was surprised and pleased to see your latest book, Don't Go to the
Cosmetics Counter Without Me. I worked for you many years ago. You
trained me as a makeup artist and I agreed with all of your philosophies and still do to this day. I use plain banana and avocado for masks, baking soda for an exfoliant, and read labels until my eyes fall out.
I was, however, extremely surprised that you changed your opinion on
mineral oil! I have avoided mineral oil for 20 years because you convinced me
it would clog my pores and contribute nothing for moisture. You also said
that mineral oil in foundation was good because it kept unhealthy ingredients from entering the pores. I have used only moisturizers with light oils ever
since. So, do you recommend products with mineral oil more so than light oils?
Let me close by saying, good work Paula! I am glad I had the opportunity to
work with you. Jan, via email
Dear Jan,
How nice to hear from you after all this time! When I first started working
as a makeup artist 25 years ago, it was in a much different world of
information. Much that we took as fact during that time period has changed
with the advent of new studies and research about how skin functions
and what it needs to be healthy and inhibit wrinkling. Think of it in relation
to the world of computers. Just like you wouldn't use the same computer today
that you bought in the '80s, products and information for skin from that
time period are just about as dated. I have spent years researching issues
about antioxidants, irritation, sun damage, wrinkles, the physiology of skin,
and many other elements of skin aging, from hormones to genetics, along
with lots of other topics and issues. Here are some examples. Irritation is a far bigger problem than was once thought. Sun damage is the primary cause
of wrinkles but not all sunscreens are created equal even if they have the
same SPF number. Genetically programmed cell death accounts for age-related
wrinkles. Antioxidants are fundamental to the health of skin, high pH
makes problematic bacteria grow, and we now know hydrogen peroxide can
generate free radicals, so it's no longer advisable to use it for disinfecting
blemishes.
I can barely remember what I said 25 years ago, but other than using baking
soda (which can still be a good topical scrub, but not as good as using
a well formulated AHA or BHA product), none of what you wrote sounds
familiar to me. I don't ever remember recommending bananas or avocado for skin
(those are far better eaten than rubbed over the face and I'm fairly certain
I've said that for years), and mineral oil has no properties that would keep
environmental or free-radical damage from taking place. Nonetheless, given
the limitations of anyone's memory, what years of research do show to
be true about mineral oil is the following: Mineral oil does not clog, primarily because it is the wrong consistency; that is, it doesn't become hard in the pore.
However, it does feel greasy and that can be unappealing on blemish-
prone or already oily skin. Mineral oil is not occlusive enough to block
absorption into the skin, nor does it prevent skin from "breathing," as
many anti-mineral oil companies claim. I hope this answers your questions. I
wish you all the best!
April 7, 2005
*** DRUGSTORE DOUBLES ***
Chanel
Chanel's answer to the question some women must be asking: "Max Factor's
Lipfinity and Cover Girl's Outlast really work well, but isn't there a similar
product that costs A LOT MORE?" Mirroring the same concept introduced by the
aforementioned products (a lip color that dries to a matte, unmovable
finish,accompanied by a clear gloss that doesn't disturb the color to create a
creamy finish), Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour is a
formidable option for those looking for long-wearing lip color. The shade
selection is smaller than that of competing brands, but each shade is quite
attractive, with colors that are complimentary to light and dark skin tones (the dark shades are very dark, so test them before purchasing). It does wear
well throughout the day (and night), but as with similar products, it
requires regular reapplication of the top coat to keep lips feeling comfortable. Keep in mind the extra expense does not get you a superior product.
*** PROBLEMS? SOLUTIONS! ***
When Should I Throw Out a Product?
Problem: I've heard a lot of different information regarding when I
should throw away a cosmetic. Is there a time limit when products should be
thrown away?
Solution: Unfortunately, there are no regulations or guidelines on the
expiration date for skin-care or makeup products. The FDA has no rules
on this issue whatsoever. Cosmetic companies generally do one to three
year stability testing on their products, but this typically looks only at
heat variables (freezing or overheating, for instance). It doesn't take into
account how consumers use the products. Cosmetics that have been
improperly stored-for example, exposed to sunlight, left open, contaminated (any product packaged in a jar has almost a one-hundred percent risk of being
contaminated)-may deteriorate substantially before a year is up. On the
other hand, products stored under ideal conditions may be acceptable long
after any suggested "use by" dates.
So what should you do? In general, it is best to toss out cosmetics
placed near the eye (like mascara) after four to six months, and to dispose of
face products (moisturizers, foundations) after one to two years. The usage
time for eye-area cosmetics is more limited than for other products. Because
of microbial exposure and the risk of eye infections, some industry
experts recommend replacing mascara every three months. If mascara becomes dry, discard it. Do not add water or saliva to moisten it as that will
introduce bacteria into the product. If you have an eye infection, consult a
physician immediately, stop using all eye-area cosmetics, and discard those you were using when the infection occurred.
Other cosmetics that might have a short shelf-life are "all natural"
products that may contain plant-derived substances conducive to microbial
growth. It also is important for consumers to consider the increased risk of
contamination in some "natural" products that contain nontraditional
preservatives or no preservatives at all.
Sharing makeup increases the risk of contamination. The testers commonly
found at cosmetics counters are more likely to become contaminated than
the same ones in an individual's home. If you feel you must test a cosmetic
before purchasing it, apply it with a new, unused applicator, such as a
fresh cotton swab. But remember?these are merely suggestions, and not based
on any established research or guidelines. (Source: FDA Office of Cosmetics
Facts Sheet, March 9, 2000, "Shelf Life-Expiration Date.")
*** NEW FOR YOU ***
Paula's Select Natural Finish Oil-Absorbing Makeup SPF 15 keeps oil and
shine
in check, evens out your skin tone with a special blend of
oil-absorbers and
smooth-finish ingredients, and provides broad-spectrum sun protection.
Initially creamy, this foundation's exquisite texture blends easily and
dries
to a sheer to light, long-wearing matte finish. See all four shades at
http://bb.cosmeticscop.com/t?ctl=CB4DBD:32CC7D2
*** DEAR PAULA ***
Dear Paula,
I was surprised and pleased to see your latest book, Don't Go to the
Cosmetics Counter Without Me. I worked for you many years ago. You
trained me as a makeup artist and I agreed with all of your philosophies and still do to this day. I use plain banana and avocado for masks, baking soda for an exfoliant, and read labels until my eyes fall out.
I was, however, extremely surprised that you changed your opinion on
mineral oil! I have avoided mineral oil for 20 years because you convinced me
it would clog my pores and contribute nothing for moisture. You also said
that mineral oil in foundation was good because it kept unhealthy ingredients from entering the pores. I have used only moisturizers with light oils ever
since. So, do you recommend products with mineral oil more so than light oils?
Let me close by saying, good work Paula! I am glad I had the opportunity to
work with you. Jan, via email
Dear Jan,
How nice to hear from you after all this time! When I first started working
as a makeup artist 25 years ago, it was in a much different world of
information. Much that we took as fact during that time period has changed
with the advent of new studies and research about how skin functions
and what it needs to be healthy and inhibit wrinkling. Think of it in relation
to the world of computers. Just like you wouldn't use the same computer today
that you bought in the '80s, products and information for skin from that
time period are just about as dated. I have spent years researching issues
about antioxidants, irritation, sun damage, wrinkles, the physiology of skin,
and many other elements of skin aging, from hormones to genetics, along
with lots of other topics and issues. Here are some examples. Irritation is a far bigger problem than was once thought. Sun damage is the primary cause
of wrinkles but not all sunscreens are created equal even if they have the
same SPF number. Genetically programmed cell death accounts for age-related
wrinkles. Antioxidants are fundamental to the health of skin, high pH
makes problematic bacteria grow, and we now know hydrogen peroxide can
generate free radicals, so it's no longer advisable to use it for disinfecting
blemishes.
I can barely remember what I said 25 years ago, but other than using baking
soda (which can still be a good topical scrub, but not as good as using
a well formulated AHA or BHA product), none of what you wrote sounds
familiar to me. I don't ever remember recommending bananas or avocado for skin
(those are far better eaten than rubbed over the face and I'm fairly certain
I've said that for years), and mineral oil has no properties that would keep
environmental or free-radical damage from taking place. Nonetheless, given
the limitations of anyone's memory, what years of research do show to
be true about mineral oil is the following: Mineral oil does not clog, primarily because it is the wrong consistency; that is, it doesn't become hard in the pore.
However, it does feel greasy and that can be unappealing on blemish-
prone or already oily skin. Mineral oil is not occlusive enough to block
absorption into the skin, nor does it prevent skin from "breathing," as
many anti-mineral oil companies claim. I hope this answers your questions. I
wish you all the best!
