Paula Begoun's Beauty Bulletin April 05

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Paula Begoun's Bonus Beauty Bulletin

April 7, 2005

*** DRUGSTORE DOUBLES ***

Chanel

$$$ Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour ($30) debuts as

Chanel's answer to the question some women must be asking: "Max Factor's

Lipfinity and Cover Girl's Outlast really work well, but isn't there a similar

product that costs A LOT MORE?" Mirroring the same concept introduced by the

aforementioned products (a lip color that dries to a matte, unmovable

finish,accompanied by a clear gloss that doesn't disturb the color to create a

creamy finish), Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour is a

formidable option for those looking for long-wearing lip color. The shade

selection is smaller than that of competing brands, but each shade is quite

attractive, with colors that are complimentary to light and dark skin tones (the dark shades are very dark, so test them before purchasing). It does wear

well throughout the day (and night), but as with similar products, it

requires regular reapplication of the top coat to keep lips feeling comfortable. Keep in mind the extra expense does not get you a superior product.

*** PROBLEMS? SOLUTIONS! ***

When Should I Throw Out a Product?

Problem: I've heard a lot of different information regarding when I

should throw away a cosmetic. Is there a time limit when products should be

thrown away?

Solution: Unfortunately, there are no regulations or guidelines on the

expiration date for skin-care or makeup products. The FDA has no rules

on this issue whatsoever. Cosmetic companies generally do one to three

year stability testing on their products, but this typically looks only at

heat variables (freezing or overheating, for instance). It doesn't take into

account how consumers use the products. Cosmetics that have been

improperly stored-for example, exposed to sunlight, left open, contaminated (any product packaged in a jar has almost a one-hundred percent risk of being

contaminated)-may deteriorate substantially before a year is up. On the

other hand, products stored under ideal conditions may be acceptable long

after any suggested "use by" dates.

So what should you do? In general, it is best to toss out cosmetics

placed near the eye (like mascara) after four to six months, and to dispose of

face products (moisturizers, foundations) after one to two years. The usage

time for eye-area cosmetics is more limited than for other products. Because

of microbial exposure and the risk of eye infections, some industry

experts recommend replacing mascara every three months. If mascara becomes dry, discard it. Do not add water or saliva to moisten it as that will

introduce bacteria into the product. If you have an eye infection, consult a

physician immediately, stop using all eye-area cosmetics, and discard those you were using when the infection occurred.

Other cosmetics that might have a short shelf-life are "all natural"

products that may contain plant-derived substances conducive to microbial

growth. It also is important for consumers to consider the increased risk of

contamination in some "natural" products that contain nontraditional

preservatives or no preservatives at all.

Sharing makeup increases the risk of contamination. The testers commonly

found at cosmetics counters are more likely to become contaminated than

the same ones in an individual's home. If you feel you must test a cosmetic

before purchasing it, apply it with a new, unused applicator, such as a

fresh cotton swab. But remember?these are merely suggestions, and not based

on any established research or guidelines. (Source: FDA Office of Cosmetics

Facts Sheet, March 9, 2000, "Shelf Life-Expiration Date.")

*** NEW FOR YOU ***

Paula's Select Natural Finish Oil-Absorbing Makeup SPF 15 keeps oil and

shine

in check, evens out your skin tone with a special blend of

oil-absorbers and

smooth-finish ingredients, and provides broad-spectrum sun protection.

Initially creamy, this foundation's exquisite texture blends easily and

dries

to a sheer to light, long-wearing matte finish. See all four shades at

http://bb.cosmeticscop.com/t?ctl=CB4DBD:32CC7D2

*** DEAR PAULA ***

Dear Paula,

I was surprised and pleased to see your latest book, Don't Go to the

Cosmetics Counter Without Me. I worked for you many years ago. You

trained me as a makeup artist and I agreed with all of your philosophies and still do to this day. I use plain banana and avocado for masks, baking soda for an exfoliant, and read labels until my eyes fall out.

I was, however, extremely surprised that you changed your opinion on

mineral oil! I have avoided mineral oil for 20 years because you convinced me

it would clog my pores and contribute nothing for moisture. You also said

that mineral oil in foundation was good because it kept unhealthy ingredients from entering the pores. I have used only moisturizers with light oils ever

since. So, do you recommend products with mineral oil more so than light oils?

Let me close by saying, good work Paula! I am glad I had the opportunity to

work with you. Jan, via email

Dear Jan,

How nice to hear from you after all this time! When I first started working

as a makeup artist 25 years ago, it was in a much different world of

information. Much that we took as fact during that time period has changed

with the advent of new studies and research about how skin functions

and what it needs to be healthy and inhibit wrinkling. Think of it in relation

to the world of computers. Just like you wouldn't use the same computer today

that you bought in the '80s, products and information for skin from that

time period are just about as dated. I have spent years researching issues

about antioxidants, irritation, sun damage, wrinkles, the physiology of skin,

and many other elements of skin aging, from hormones to genetics, along

with lots of other topics and issues. Here are some examples. Irritation is a far bigger problem than was once thought. Sun damage is the primary cause

of wrinkles but not all sunscreens are created equal even if they have the

same SPF number. Genetically programmed cell death accounts for age-related

wrinkles. Antioxidants are fundamental to the health of skin, high pH

makes problematic bacteria grow, and we now know hydrogen peroxide can

generate free radicals, so it's no longer advisable to use it for disinfecting

blemishes.

I can barely remember what I said 25 years ago, but other than using baking

soda (which can still be a good topical scrub, but not as good as using

a well formulated AHA or BHA product), none of what you wrote sounds

familiar to me. I don't ever remember recommending bananas or avocado for skin

(those are far better eaten than rubbed over the face and I'm fairly certain

I've said that for years), and mineral oil has no properties that would keep

environmental or free-radical damage from taking place. Nonetheless, given

the limitations of anyone's memory, what years of research do show to

be true about mineral oil is the following: Mineral oil does not clog, primarily because it is the wrong consistency; that is, it doesn't become hard in the pore.

However, it does feel greasy and that can be unappealing on blemish-

prone or already oily skin. Mineral oil is not occlusive enough to block

absorption into the skin, nor does it prevent skin from "breathing," as

many anti-mineral oil companies claim. I hope this answers your questions. I

wish you all the best!

 

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