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Get to Know Ingredients in Mineral Makeup

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Just thought I'd start a thread on ingredients. As a formulator, I'm willing to answer all the questions I'm able to.

 

I'll start off with a few thought provoking points...

 

Did you know that the INCI ingredient name doesn't tell you everything about that ingredient?

 

Did you know that ingredients are listed in the order of predominance, from most to least?

 

 

Lets look at Silica. It's a great ingredient that provides slip, silkiness, diffuses lines and imperfections, and can absorb excess oil.

However there are sooooo many types and variations of silica. Some maintain their spherical shape, others do not, as they absorb moisture.

 

While what TYPE a company uses is probably proprietary, its something to think about when you're looking at ING lists. Even if it looks the same, it may not feel or perform the same.

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Hi! I'm new to this forum, but that's great info. I very recently got into diy and I was blown away by how all the different micas and sericites can have the same incl (correct me if I'm wrong). But just out of curiosity, I've noticed a lot of eye shadows that have mica and carnauba wax. Since I can't see an indie formulator mixing straight wax into a powder, am I correct in saying that it's a surface treated mica? If so, wouldnt the wax be an extremely small proportion of the formula? I'm quite curious how much of treated mica's are the "treatment" ingredients. It you don't want answer that's totally fine, I just feel like a kid who graduated from Lego's to power tools x]

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This is a great thread! I'm hoping to get answers as I look into making my own shadows and pigments. My questions are mostly regarding...what can I add to, say, micas such as TKB to make them have more slip and adhesion in regards to a binding ingredient, while retaining most of the mica's brilliant colors? Same with stability so that the product lasts a long time? 

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Hi! I'm new to this forum, but that's great info. I very recently got into diy and I was blown away by how all the different micas and sericites can have the same incl (correct me if I'm wrong). But just out of curiosity, I've noticed a lot of eye shadows that have mica and carnauba wax. Since I can't see an indie formulator mixing straight wax into a powder, am I correct in saying that it's a surface treated mica? If so, wouldnt the wax be an extremely small proportion of the formula? I'm quite curious how much of treated mica's are the "treatment" ingredients. It you don't want answer that's totally fine, I just feel like a kid who graduated from Lego's to power tools x]

Sorry for the long delay in answering. I posted ads in the wrong area and got banned for a bit! ooops...my bad.

 

Yes, carnuba is generally a surface treatment on the mica. There are many other treated/coated micas. We use Magnesium myristate and jojoba treated in our formulas. And yes it's a very small % of the formula so would be at the end of the ingredient list :)

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This is a great thread! I'm hoping to get answers as I look into making my own shadows and pigments. My questions are mostly regarding...what can I add to, say, micas such as TKB to make them have more slip and adhesion in regards to a binding ingredient, while retaining most of the mica's brilliant colors? Same with stability so that the product lasts a long time? 

So much fun to make your own products! Good idea to start off with eyeshadows.

There are many ingredients for slip - silica and boron nitride are most popular

Adhesion- magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate are really good.

What you should do is buy several small amounts of say 20 or so base powders. Then experiment with applying them to your skin. Get to know them by how they feel and look.

Are they sticky? = adhesion

Are they silky? = slip

Are they opaque?

Sheer?

Sparkly?

Sheen?

Make notes of what each powder looks and feels like.

Then think about what you need in an eyeshadow - slip, adhesion, sheen, sparkle, color.

1st try each mica as a shadow alone to determine what it needs.

Begin by adding small percents of what you need in the mica for the shadow.

TAKE LOTS OF NOTES! trust me...it is so disheartening to get the perfect formula then have NO idea how to duplicate it!

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I'm so happy I found this thread. I am going to try to make a minerals foundation and I have learnt so much already. Will tell you if I am successful.

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never thought that INCI ingredient was like that! Thanks for sharing this! :)

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