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Jan 23, 2005
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Permanent Cosmetics Design Considerations

by Marjorie Grimm

Today and Tomorrow Considerations

It is difficult to imagine putting your facial features in fast forward in order to determine what, if anything will be different about your permanent cosmetics as your face continues to mature. This is rarely questioned at the consultation for permanent cosmetics because we have the tendency to think of having our permanent cosmetics look fresh, day and night, as we look today. It is however, a very important factor when deciding on design and color selections for permanent cosmetic procedures. Assuming you have selected a well- trained technician for your service, permanent cosmetics services today need not be a fear factor for the future.

When considering the natural progression of age and the longevity of the positive appearance of your permanent cosmetics, the most important issues are proper placement and design of your procedure. If not properly placed with the future effects of gravity taken into consideration, your procedures could very well not be as attractive as you had hoped. Conversely, proper placement and classic (rather than trendy) designs and colors, can ensure that you will enjoy the pleasure of a fresh face and youthful appearance for many years to come.

Eyebrow designs

The eyebrow design should be placed in the area where your natural eyebrows grow, or used to grow. If you are pursuing an eyebrow procedure to enhance your own eyebrow hair that is extremely light, following your own natural eyebrow placement is critical. Your new eyebrows, or enhancements to your existing eyebrows, will then age naturally along with the skin that in which it is placed. Some women, however, prefer to draw their eyebrow tails slightly above the bone. To consider this design proper for a permanent cosmetic eyebrow procedure may or may not be a good decision depending on whether you would consider cosmetic surgery such as an eyebrow lift in the future. Higher exaggerations of the tail of the eyebrows may work for those who never intend on having plastic surgery, but this is not recommended if there is a chance that you may want to pursue surgical modifications to your face.

There are many different techniques employed to create a natural eyebrow design. Some clients prefer a similar appearance to that which is produced by their eyebrow pencil. This is called a "powered eyebrow design". Some clients specifically request a "hairline stroke design". This is the simulation of multiple hairs in a specific design area that implies movement such as real eyebrow hair provides. This is an advanced technique and clients desiring hairline stroke eyebrows should consult with a qualified technician before proceeding. Many clients and technicians see merit in the combination of a soft powered eyebrow technique with strategically placed hairline strokes, normally in the bulb area to compliment the client's thin hair growth in that area. There are many artful techniques to choose from.

Top Eyeliner Designs

When considering a permanent cosmetic top eyeliner design, the best choice for the long term is pigment placed in and directly above the lash line. This design also gives the most options for using topical makeup for special occasions when a more dramatic appearance is desired. Often mature women feel wider eyeliner on the upper eyelids will compensate for the faltering affects of excess eyelid skin. This is usually not recommended, unless heavy eyeliner has always been worn. Most importantly, as eyelid surgery becomes increasingly popular, the potential for surgical removal of excess eyelid skin must be taken into consideration. If eyelid surgery in the future is a possibility, the removal of the excess skin will cause a wide eyeliner to appear even wider. If conservative eyeliner enhancements and top liners close to the top eyelashes are applied, your permanent cosmetic top eyeliner should not pose any challenges for a cosmetic surgeon.

One of the most ill-advised top eyeliner designs is the exaggerated extension of the eyeliner tails far past the last eyelash of the outer corner of each eye. What may give you the illusion of a "lift" or eye width extension in that area at the initial time of your procedure may in time appear misplaced, uneven, and/or partially or totally hidden in the excess skin that affects the corners of the eyes.

Lower Eyeliner Designs

The same principles apply to lower eyeliner, however there are several surgical technique options that could have an effect on lower eyeliners. Keep your design conservative and placement directly beneath the lower eyelashes. If in doubt, work with your client's surgeon to determine the best method of proceeding. As the skin in that area ages, your lower eyeliner will remain in its original placement. In the event surgical removal of excess skin beneath the eye is elected, depending on the technique utilized, at the most, you may need a touchup to restore the integrity of the original design.

Lip Design and Color Selections

The same thoughtful consideration must be given to lip liner placement. If placed properly, permanent cosmetic lip liner can actually detract from noticeable wrinkles on and directly above the lips. In order to slightly enhance the size of the lips and give the appearance of fuller lips or lip augmentation, the lip liner can tastefully be placed adjacent to the vermilion border, however the texture of the natural vermilion border is thicker and more noticeable than the thin tissue of the rest of the lip. As a result you will always see a lip within a lip if the lip liner is not placed on or directly above the natural vermilion border of the lip.

When choosing the color for your permanent lipstick, there are several factors to keep in mind. Over time the lips become less plump and small or large lines appear. As the lips decrease in size due to the aging process, the color may appear inconsistent. Where there is more wrinkling in the lip, the brighter colors will appear denser and thus, darker than other areas that are less wrinkled. Consider a soft, more natural lip color for your lip liner and full lip colors so that years later, when the overall configuration of your lips has changed, your color remains complimentary and the wrinkling less noticeable.


The primary consideration when determining permanent cosmetic design and color specifically for yourself, it is that you are involved with the process. Do not agree to allowing another person to maintain complete control over these factors. A professional, well trained technician will routinely solicit your preferences and do what is required to meet your standards. It is your face, and you, your family and friends will be the ones to eventually live with the results. Look forward in time, and work toward designs and color selections, and your permanent cosmetic makeup will serve you well for many years to come.


i know someone who got her eyebrows done and she already regrets it. im constantly changing my style that i couldn't imagine doing something this permanent to my face.


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