Quick Hair Troubleshooting Guide

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Feb 17, 2004
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<TABLE class=textNormal cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width=620 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Bang Control</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>"Bangs should be razor cut for uneven ends," says New York City- and Los Angeles-based stylist Laurent d. of Prive Salon. "The uneven ends make them easier to control, and keep in place." Laurent suggests blow-drying bangs on a giant brush, lifting hair up from the roots for the ultimate set. Then rub a bit of styling wax or pomade into ends to weigh them down.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Color Correct</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>If you've colored your light hair with a slightly darker semi-permanent color, and you don?t like the results, you won?t be able to return to your original, lighter color by applying a lighter shade at this point. However, a semi-permanent color will wash out in several weeks. For permanent color problems, top colorist Adam Broderick, ULTA's Director of Salon Image, suggests these pro-fixes:

[*]A dark shade could be stripped by your colorist, depending on individual issues. Then you could start from scratch with a desired color.

[*]Tint your hair with a color halfway between the mistake and your natural color. Then as it grows out you could move gradually closer and closer back to your original shade.

[*]The least damaging option: Opt for double-processed highlights or lowlights, which consists of bleaching out random strands of the undesired shade and then coloring those strands with a contrasting color to blend and soften haircolor.

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Cowlick</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>"The good thing about cowlicks," says Ruth Roche, Redken's creative styling director, "is that they give hair natural volume. So just go with a cowlick, instead of fighting it." Ruth suggests cutting long bangs as a surefire cowlick-helper. Style bangs and the crown of your hair by applying volumizing spray or lotion and blow-drying with a round brush, lifting away from the roots.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Curl Up</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>"Curls are super hot this season. Everyone wants curls," says New York City hairstylist Jerome Lordet of Pierre Michel Salon. To get great curls, Lordet suggests this styling technique: Apply a large dollop of smoothing gel to freshly shampooed hair, and comb through while hair is still wet. Finger form curls, directing them toward your face. Then let your hair dry naturally. Hands off until it's completely dry, to prevent curls from frizzing. Further enhance texture with a light pomade, applied to individual curls with your fingers. Never use a brush or comb on finished curls.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Damaged Locks</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Indulge in a few strand-savers. Deep condition hair three times a week -- look for panthenol and pro-vitamin B5 on ingredient lists for ultimate hair-health -- until your hair starts to look shinier and feel stronger. Minimize blow-dry and heat-styling time. Keep hair lightly coated with a styling aid such as texturizing cream or hairspray to guard against environmental exposure until it's back in good shape.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Dandruff</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Dandruff is caused by a scalp that is oily, causing dead skin cells to stick to the scalp, hampering the sloughing process, and resulting in a buildup of large, oily flakes. Correct the situation with a shampoo specially formulated to control dandruff. If you're still experiencing flakes or your scalp is dry and crusty, see your dermatologist. You may have a chronic condition, like seborrheic dermatitis, which requires different treatment.

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Dry Hair</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Lube your locks with this pro treatment from the Adam Broderick Image Center. Shampoo and condition with moisturizing formulas. Instead of just a light rinse, massage the conditioner into your scalp, and leave it on while you go about your shower routine. The steamy heat will help the hydrating formula penetrate, softening and moisturizing hair and scalp.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Fading Color</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>"Use hair products -- shampoo, conditioner, and styling products if possible -- specifically designed for color-treated hair," says Laurie Foley, the colorist at New York City's Bumble and bumble Salon, responsible for Gwyneth Paltrow's dramatic shade alterations. They're formulated to deeply nourish extra-porous locks and help keep color true. Shampoo hair in lukewarm water -- a rinse that's too hot will open the hair's cuticle, leaving the strand vulnerable to minerals and other foreign substances in water that can alter hue.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Fly-Aways</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Fix fly-aways at the root -- shampoo and condition with an "anti-static" formula, or those that contain silicone to coat hair. You can also get them in shape with a styling product. Aerosol hairsprays work to smooth static, or coat unruly locks with a heavier texture such as pomade or styling cream, which will help weigh fly-away hair down.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Frizzies</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Certain hair types are predisposed to it, but frizz happens when the hair's cuticle opens, leaving rough edges all along the hair shaft. "Prevent frizz," says stylist-to-the-stars Laurent d., "by nourishing the hair from the inside. A well-moisturized strand will appear sleeker." Use a heavy-duty pre-shampoo deep-conditioning treatment once a week, and condition every day with a hydrating formula. Look for dry, damaged, or color-treated in the product description.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Glossy Texture</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>A high-shine, glossy texture is the key to healthy-looking locks. Adam Broderick, ULTA's Director of Salon Imaging, suggests this treatment for getting curly, coarse or wavy hair super glossy: Apply a moisture-rich styling cream to freshly washed hair, then comb or finger-style into place. If you blow-dry to speed drying time, cap the dryer with a diffuser. Once hair is dry, spritz with a hairspray or styling spritz that contains silicone to coat each strand for ultimate glossiness.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Gray Coverage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Get the best results with haircolor by examining your specific needs and treating them accordingly. "If you have a full head of gray hair (75% or more) you must use a permanent formula, such as Miss Clairol, which deposits color inside the hairshaft," says Laurie Foley, Gwyneth Paltrow's colorist. "Cover random gray strands with a semi-permanent formula, such as L'Oreal Feria, which coats hair with color, blending away gray. If you need to spot treat an area, use a semi-permanent or permanent formula."</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Grow Out Bangs</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>"Create new styles with hair accessories while you are growing out your bangs," suggests New York City- and Los Angeles-based hairstylist Laurent d. Push bangs over to one side and secure with a bobby pin, or brush them back and camouflage with a headband. Laurent also recommends getting regular haircuts -- every six weeks or so -- to connect hair layers as efficiently as possible.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Hair Breaks Easily</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Tresses that have been over-processed by coloring or perming, or are severely dry are prone to breakage. Nourish hair from the inside to moisturize and increase strength and elasticity. To prevent breaking during combing and styling: Do a deep conditioning treatment twice a week, and fortify locks with a leave-in conditioner after every shampoo.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Hair Grows Too Slowly</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>"Slow-growing hair could be a sign of a thyroid condition, especially if it's coupled with fatigue, excessive skin dryness, and headaches," says Rogaine for Women's consulting doctor, Dr. Mary Sawaya. The rate at which hair grows varies from woman to woman. A daily scalp massage may stimulate growth.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>No Time to Style</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>If you're short on time and can't shampoo your hair, try one of the new "hair refresher" products, such as Pantene Hair Revival, that enhance texture and neutralize everyday odors (such as smoke or food). Simply run the product through hair (concentrating on roots) and blow-dry a few sections around your face for a fresh look. If you have absolutely no time, run a dollop of styling cream through ends, wrap hair into a ponytail, then double it up, creating a chic, loose bun.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Oily Scalp</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Heat stimulates oil production in the scalp. Whether it's hot outside, you're blow-drying fine, straight hair, or prefer super-hot showers, an oily scalp could result. The pros at the Adam Broderick Image Center in Connecticut suggest rinsing hair in lukewarm water, letting hair dry naturally for 90% of drying time, and switching to a special shampoo for oily hair when the temperature soars.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Shine-Enhancer</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Boost your hair's brilliance with silicone-packed styling and texturizing products. If you have fine, thin strands, choose a light shine spray or a small drop of serum. For curly heads that have thicker, coarser texture, heavier aids such as pomade, styling cream, or wax will work best.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Split Ends</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Once a split end occurs, there's no way to "fix" it, though you can temporarily seal the split with a heavy silicone-packed styling product, such as pomade or styling wax. Prevent split ends by conditioning with a detangling formula -- your comb or brush will glide through hair while styling, instead of causing snarls and tangles, which eventually break. Get regular trims to snip away splits and keep your hair healthy.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Straighten Out</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Getting curly or wavy hair straight and sleek is all in the preparation. Try this step-by-step pro technique from the Adam Broderick Image Center:

[*]Protect hair with a heat-protective leave-in conditioner.

[*]Comb through a straightening or relaxing cream or gel.

[*]Rough-dry hair with your fingers until 85% of water is out, and hair is slightly damp to the touch.

[*]Blow-dry 2-inch sections with a giant round brush. Be patient, working section-by-section. For hard-to-reach sections in the back, wrap hair around the brush, then lift it up and apply heat from roots to ends, reaching to the sky.

[*]For super-sleek styles, follow with a straightening iron, again working section-by-section.

[*]Add shine and seal the cuticle and ends with a dollop of silicone-packed styling cream.

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Style Failure</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>If your style falls flat by five, here's a quick pick-me-up for your lock look: Turn your head upside down, and shake hair out from the roots. Spritz a volumizing spray or light hairspray all over, then flip your head back over. Finger-style into place, then enhance texture with a dab of wax rubbed into the ends. If your hair is super-fine, stick a few Velcro rollers around your crown, and hairspray. Remove after five minutes, and finger-style. Avoid heavy products like wax or pomade, which could weigh down fine, thin strands.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Sun Damage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Heat from the sun can open the hair's cuticle, leaving the hair shaft vulnerable to nature's fury -- resulting in frazzled strands, faded color, and dull, dry texture. Restore health to hair with a weekly 30-minute deep-conditioning treatment and regular haircuts -- about every 5-6 weeks -- when the sun is exceptionally strong. Prevent sun damage by keeping hair coated with a UV protectant gel. First run a bit of leave-in conditioner through strands, then comb-through the gel to form a protective barrier.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Thinning Hair</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Hair thins as you get older. Try coloring your hair with a semipermanent formula -- they coat each hair strand to beef them up. If you don't want to try a new shade, top your current color with an identical shade. If you're losing lots of hair you could have a medical problem such as a thyroid condition or alopecia. Consult your physician.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>Up-Do That Lasts</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ffffff>The secret to a lasting style is in the preparation. Start with second-day hair -- freshly-washed hair doesn't have the texture to support an up-do. Brush hair through with a natural-bristle brush to create shine. Enhance texture and hold with a small dollop of wax or serum, finger-combed through hair. Twist hair into the desired shape, then pin using a sewing technique: Push the pin into the hair in one direction, then twist it back over itself and secure in the opposite direction for extra grip. Your look should last well into the evening.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Volumize</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left bgColor=#ccffcc>Create lift and volume fast with a spray-in foam volumizer. Concentrate the foam on the top third of locks, from the roots down. Blow-dry with a medium-sized round brush, lifting from the roots, applying heat to both the front and back of each section at the roots. When you've finished styling, lock your look in place with a hairspray formulated to create and hold body.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>



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